Autumn in Munich. I am really, really going to miss this. đđ
Tag: germany
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Oktoberfest 2022
When we got our apartment in Munich, one of the features we were most excited about was its proximity to the Theresienwiese. (We were literally a 5 minute walk to the Bavaria statue.) The Theresienwiese is the big showgrounds (historically it was a meadow) where Oktoberfest happens every year… except, of course, it didn’t happen in 2020 or 2021 because of Covid. This was a major blow to the city, both in terms of the economy and civic pride.
People, there was no way I was leaving Munich without getting to experience Oktoberfest. After our small taste at FrĂŒhlingfest in April 2022, we were so excited for it to finally happen in September. Strap in – this is going to be a long post with a lot of photos and videos!
One thing that surprised me was how early they started setting up. In May I was riding my bike across the Wiese and saw the new Pschorr BrÀurosl starting to take shape. We found out later that this was because it was a new, larger design than it had been previously, and they needed to set up early so it could go through security tests and approvals.
It also doesn’t look like much of a tent, does it? They’re more like barns than tents.
By the start of July, the rest of the tents were going up as well. The Pschorr BrĂ€urosl now had a roof and the walls were going up. The SchĂŒtzen Festzelt was also taking shape, as well as the famous Paulaner and LöwenbrĂ€u pillars.
A month later in August, things were still further along. I was surprised by the Nymphenburg Sekt tent; I hadn’t realised there were tents for drinks other than beer. (“Sekt” is sparkling wine.)
The last thing to go up were the fair rides in early September. By this point most of the Wiese had been fenced off as the final touches were put in place.
And then I had to head off to Bangkok for a work trip… I landed back in Munich on the morning of Saturday, September 17 – the very first day of Oktoberfest. I caught the train home from the airport and was delighted to see loads of folks in Tracht on the train and in the stations. Many of them were carrying large boards, which I later found out were the trays serving staff use to carry food.
A few hours later I was at home when a large BOOM rattled the house. I realised it was the traditional 12 o’clock opening gun salute and ran to the window to get a video.
We didn’t plan on going to Oktoberfest on the first day, instead frantically cleaning the house ahead of the arrival of our guests the next. Around 5pm I heard drumming and watched as a drum corps marched past behind the house in the pouring rain. In full lederhosen, no less! That’s dedication.
The next afternoon we headed back to the airport to welcome my mom, step-dad, and brother. Eventually we managed to collect them and get them back onto the train home.
The Garbericks were pretty jet-lagged, but we herded them out of the house and down to the nearby Wirtshaus am Bavariapark for dinner. That’s where Joe discovered a new affinity for Schnitzel. đ
Me and my gorgeous Mom. â€ïž
We dedicated the next day to sightseeing. Our first stop was the Olympia-Schimmhalle so Joey (who swims competitively for Ball State) could get in his workout. Interestingly, they had up a sign that due to the war in Ukraine (and the need for Germany to conserve energy) the temperature in the pool would be cooler than normal. Joey didn’t mind.
We walked them all around the Olympiapark, including stopping by the 1972 Olympic Massacre Memorial. The 50th anniversary had recently been commemorated, so there were wreaths for each of the murdered athletes. It was very moving.
We then went into the city to show them the highlights of the Altstadt. We finally went into the Frauenkirche, the symbol of Munich.
Of course I had to take Mom to a local quilting shop! She bought a fabric panel covered in scenes from Munich.
We walked all over, trying to take advantage of the sunshine to help them get over the jetlag. In the afternoon we stopped for a little rest in the Residenz Hofgarten.
The next day was Tuesday, and it was finally time to head to Oktoberfest! Rodd and I got dressed up in our Tracht, and Mom braided my hair for me. It was cold and rainy so I wore boots and a cardigan with my dirndl.
We headed down early to the nearest entrance at the Bavaria statue. A kind person offered to take a group photo of the five of us! â€ïž
It was Joey’s 21st birthday, so we’d all chipped in the day before to gift him an outfit from Trachten Rausch. He got a belted lederhosen with a beautiful collarless shirt and knitted socks.
Mom’s wearing my other dirndl. Don’t we look cute?
Pretty quickly, Joe and Joey decided that they needed appropriately Bavarian hats. We stopped at a stall where a very nice guy helped sort them out.
The day was really cool and damp, and it was constantly threatening to rain. Little did we know it would be like this almost every day for the next two weeks.
We walked up and down the aisles checking out the tents. The Schottenhamel Festzelt is the one where – right as that gun salute had happened on Saturday – the first Oktoberfest keg was tapped by the lord mayor of Munich.
Right after this it started to rain, so we decided to make the ArmbrustschĂŒtzenzelt (“Crossbowman’s tent”) our first stop of the day. It was very pretty with its green and white striped ceiling, and it wasn’t very full yet so we easily got a table. It apparently hosts the German crossbow championship (in a side tent) every year.
It had just gone noon, so it was definitely time to get on the beers. Here you can see Joe and Joey modeling their new hats.
The Garbericks were definitely feeling the GemĂŒtlichkeit.
Never underestimate the ability of a 21-year-old to suck down beer. Joey finished his first liter in under 20 minutes!
We also introduced them to “Ein Prosit,” the short little drinking song you hear every 10-20 minutes at Oktoberfest. Here is me singing it very, very off-key. đ
I was very proud to have remembered to bring my Deckel, a lid for a beer stein. It’s much more useful in the summertime to keep wasps and bees out of your beer in the biergarten. We got a pair of them engraved a few months earlier.
We were finally at Oktoberfest! It was really happening!!
The rain stopped so we headed back out for more exploration. We saw the Paulaner bierwagen and stopped for photos. The wagon is just for show though; pretty much all the beer at Oktoberfest is served from modern kegs. (The only brewery that still does the wooden ones is Augustiner.)
We were getting a bit peckish so stopped off at Cafe Kaiserschmarrn for cake. This tent is run by Rischart, a famous bakery chain in Munich. It looked like a giant gingerbread house!
The nearby MĂŒnchner Knödelei (“Munich Dumping House”) had a very cute photo stand-in that Rodd and I couldn’t resist…
We were getting a bit tired and the Americans all needed a nap, so we headed back to the house to recharge. Along the way we spotted the Löwenbrau bierwagen as well.
After a nap, we headed back in the evening to explore the Oide Wiesn. This is a fenced off area that is meant to be more like the historical Oktoberfest, and you have to pay a couple euros to get in. We went first to the Museum tent, where a traditional band was playing.
I really loved the exhibit of all the old Oktoberfest posters. Those ones from the 60s and 70s were so cool! The 2022 design is also available on a commemorative beer mug, which I bought later that evening.
We also checked out the Historische Kegelbahn (“Historic bowling alley”) with wooden balls and pulley-system for restoring the pins.
Time for another beer tent! We went to the Festzelt Tradition, a 5000-seater in the Oide Wiesn that features traditional brass music and dancing. We got a table and ordered some food for Brotzeit. (You’ll notice that we changed into warmer clothes, because the weather was so chilly and damp.)
In the Oide Wiesn tents, the beers are served out of ceramic beer steins rather than glass, and I believe it all comes from barrels as well.
We were absolutely delighted when a group of folk dancers took over the central stage! This was the highlight of the day, seeing them do the Schuhplattler dancing, stomping and slapping their knees and thighs.
The men were later joined by women, who twirled twirled twirled in their beautiful dirndls.
We left the Oide Wiesn in the evening and headed back out to the midway, doing a final lap to buy souvenirs and check out the modern tents. The LöwenbrÀu tent looked to be pretty popular! My favourite part is the big animatronic lion over the entrance, who throws back a beer and periodically roars.
There are plenty of smaller tents too. We stopped to get some KĂ€sespĂ€tzle at Feisingers Kas und Weinstubn (“Cheese and wine parlour”), which was packed with happy Bavarians singing pop music.
Mom really liked her KÀsespÀtzle!
We couldn’t resist the opportunity to finally see inside the Pschorr BrĂ€urosl, after seeing it being built over so many months.
It was PACKED! Definitely not getting a table in here. So many young people, standing room only, up on their seats dancing to rock music. We did a lap and then got the hell out.
And that was it for our first day at Oktoberfest! Time to go home and sleep it all off….
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The forecast is for rain every day next week, so I made sure to get out for an afternoon ride. #vitamind đŽââïžâïž
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FrĂŒhlingsfest!
A few weeks ago I was riding my bike across the Theresienwiese when I noticed yet another fair being set up at the far end. I pootled over to get a closer look.
I didn’t have to wonder long before I figured out what event was coming up…
FrĂŒhlingsfest! Aka Munich’s Spring Festival. How exciting. It opened a few days after we got back from Amsterdam, so we went over in the evening to check it out.
It was mostly your basic midway amusement park with rides, games, and food stalls.
However, it also had two of the big festival beer tents! (By comparison, Oktoberfest has fourteen.) The Augustiner Festhalle was super popular with a large crowd waiting to get in.
I was delighted to see how many young people were wearing their Tracht. Tracht refers to the traditional folk costumes worn in German-speaking regions (mostly in Bavaria, Tyrol, and Austria). For men it’s mainly lederhosen, and for women it’s dirndls.
While I was marvelling at the outfits, something caught my eye in the distance. “Does that… say… Beer Carousel????”
Indeed it did. “Bierkarussell.” An honest-to-goodness rotating beer carousel. We knew we were going to have to try it out, but we needed to line our stomachs first.
How about a half-meter bratwurst? Perfect. Okay, now back to the beer.
The Bierkarussell looks like a traditional carousel, except there are no horses and there’s a circular bar in the middle. The patrons stand around the edges and it rotates very slowly around and around. We went for the full “MaĂ” (1 liter) of Helles (lager).
The rotating was making me a bit dizzy, so eventually we stepped off and found a spot on the side to stand and drink our beers. A very happy drunk Bavarian guy toasted us every time he came past. It was hilarious.
The very next day I spotted an email from the local Democrats Abroad Munich chapter inviting us to join them in the Hippodrom tent for Bavarian-American Friendship Day. I immediately reserved two seats. Of course, if we were going to party in a festival tent, we were going to need our own Tracht…
I had previously waffled on whether to buy Tracht. It’s an actual folk costume, and I wondered whether it would be cultural appropriation. (Neither of us have German ancestry.) I asked a couple locals though, who said that it was absolutely fine. The only rule they mentioned was to NOT buy the crappy shiny Halloween costume versions they sell in the cheap shops near the Hauptbahnhof to the tourists. Instead we went to Trachten Rausch, not far from where we live. They were pretty busy with folks buying outfits for FrĂŒhlingfest, but within minutes we each had a guy pulling stuff off the racks for us to try on. I got a pink dindl with an apron and blouse, and the Snook got lederhosen, a checked shirt, and knit socks. (Each outfit ran us around âŹ200.)
And then it was time for the big day! We got dressed up and made our way to the Hippodrom. Holy moly – it was overwhelming. A band was playing and thousands of people were eating dinner and gulping down giant steins of beer.
We found the Democrats Abroad tables pretty quickly. It turns out that many of the tables at the front of the room were for various American expat groups.
The tent was so big they had a screen so people in the back could see the stage. (As you can see, not everybody was wearing Tracht.)
Karena took a photo of the Snook and me in all our Tracht glory…
We settled in and pretty soon we flagged down a server for some beers. PROST! đ»
The evening kicked off properly with a lovely speech from United States Consul General Timothy Liston in honour of Bavarian-American Friendship Day. He wore Tracht too!
We were enjoying ourselves a lot!
The band were mostly playing classic pub rock covers (in English), but I’m not sure if that was special because of the day. Maybe normally it’s all Schlager? At any rate, they were awesome. We learned very quickly that every 20 minutes or so the singer would yell “Die KrĂŒge hoch” and everyone would raise their glasses and sing a little drinking song…
It’s called “Ein Prosit der GemĂŒtlichkeit,” and it means “a toast to well-being.” It’s followed by a count to three and then “DRINK!”
With all that beer, it was time for some food.
The Snook went for the roast pork with dumpings, while I went with meatballs and sauerkraut. I find it frankly astonishing that they manage to have table service in such a huge place. And there’s no credit cards – it’s all cash. (Note to self: Write an Ocean’s 11-style heist movie where a daring band of criminals knocks over multiple Oktoberfest tents in one night!)
We each had a second MaĂ of beer, and that’s when everybody started to really cut loose. People were up on the benches dancing and singing along to the band. My phone is full of videos of us acting like idiots and belting out Neil Diamond and ABBA songs. As I’m sure YouTube would flag those as copyright violation, instead you get a photo of the Snook and a couple dudes’ bums. đ
Here we are at the end of the night. Yeah, that was a good time!
Thanks to the Democrats Abroad for hosting us! Now we’re just counting down the days until Oktoberfest and we can break out the Tracht again… â€ïž
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FrĂŒhlingsfest kommt bald! (Iâm actually very excited. I have no idea why Iâm making that face.) đĄđ»đ·
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So much for the Spring flowers. đąâïž
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The Föhn is on! Itâs a warm, dry wind from the mountains and itâs resulted in a warm, sunny Autumn day. Weâre taking advantage by having lunch on the garden while we can⊠â€ïžđđ
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Fairytale Castles
On our way back from Barcelona, I pulled out my phone and idly checked the Hohenschangau ticket office, as I had many times over the past few months. To my delight, they actually had some tickets available for the next weekend! On a whim I bought a pair and we quickly arranged a weekend away in FĂŒssen, the nearest town to the famous castle of Neuschwanstein.
FĂŒssen is southwest of Munich, less than three hours on the train. (Itâs right next to the Austrian border, the next valley over from Garmisch-Partenkirchen.) The weather that weekend was gorgeous, and it was thrilling to see the mountains rising up in the distance. And⊠is that a little castle I spy?? đ°
We stayed in the Hotel Schlosskrone, just a short walk from the train station. The view from our hotel was pretty glorious.
We headed out into the town for a wander and to find some dinner. FĂŒssen was founded in Roman times and itâs retained quite a medieval feel.
Itâs pretty touristy too, being the closest place to Ludwigâs castles. Phew, âŹ500+ for a cuckoo clock?!
We also got a glimpse of the Hohes Schloss (âHigh Castleâ) up on the hill, the former summer residence of the prince-bishops of Augsburg.
The next day we headed back out to check it out in the sunshineâŠ
Gosh it was beautiful there.
We were heading towards the river, where we knew there were was a waterfall. Along the way we ducked in the courtyard of St. Mangâs, a former Benedictine monastery. Now it contains the Museum of FĂŒssen.
I loved how decorated the buildings were in town. This was the Church of the Holy Spirit.
The river in FĂŒssen is called the Lech, and it flows from a lake in the Alps all the way to the Danube. Hereâs the Snook on the LechbrĂŒcke (âLech Bridgeâ).
We had another view of St. Mangâs from the river.
We crossed the river and hiked a short distance to the west, where we reached our destination – the Lechfall.
The water pours down a series of steps at a narrow bend in the river with high cliffs on either side. Up on the cliff there is a small memorial to King Maximilian II of Bavaria. Thereâs also a small footbridge across the river that we headed down to get a better view.
I recorded a little video too.
Behind us, looking back east towards townâŠ
The water in the river was incredibly clear.
We crossed the river in search of the Via Claudia Augusta, the ancient Roman road created by Drusus and his Emperor son Claudius. Now parts of it are a popular hiking path marked with replicas of the Roman milestones.
We followed it north towards the Tal der Sinne (âValley of the Sensesâ).
Along the way we passed lots of charming houses, both modern and traditional.
We made it to The Valley and found an old ski jump! That was pretty cool.
And the Snook got to impersonate a sundial.
We hiked back into town in search of sustenance. We passed a lot of hotels and guest houses, but tourist numbers were still pretty low due to Covid.
I thought this building covered in birdhouses was really cute.
Back in town, we did some shopping. I lobbied hard, but no, he regrettably did not buy the hat.
We found a sunny spot for lunch and beersâŠ
The Snook may not have bought a hat, but I did! I got it at the Hutladen.
The next day, it was time to head to the castles! đ°
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Summer Cycling Update
Itâs been a really long time since I updated you on my cycling! I didn’t rack up quite as many kilometers this summer as I’d hoped, mostly because we were travelling whenever we could and the weather was pretty rainy. I’m not far off the pace that I need for my yearlong 1000km goal, but I doubt I’ll get there given that it’s getting cold and we have more travel planned.
I thought I’d share a few of the more notable long rides I’ve done. One back in May was to Messestadt Riem.
My destination was about 15km across Munich. I found a route on Komoot and headed off, with the Snook following on the train. One landmark on the way there was St. Michaelâs church in Berg am Laim. I was sweaty so I didnât go inside, but it was very pretty. For the route, I avoided the main roads and mostly went through residential areas and parks.
Messestadt Riem (literally âConvention City Riemâ) is one of Munichâs newest suburbs and was built on the grounds of an old airport. It has a big convention center, of course, as well as a large park with a man-made lake. The Snook had brought us a picnic lunch, so we walked through the park and found a spot to enjoy our sandwiches. Lots of folks were out and about.
We walked around the lake and the âbeach,â then climbed the âHĂŒgelâ (hill) to check out the view. It was surreal to see a lake with folks playing beach volleyball, with snow-capped mountains on the horizon!
I parted with the Snook at the train station and climbed back onboard my bike for the ride home. I went by the more direct route, using the bike path alongside the road.
So all up, that ride was about 30km / 18.5 miles!
In June I did an even longer one of about 35km, heading north along the Isar river and into the far part of the Englischer Garten that I’d never visited before.
It was a warm and sunny day but the clouds were moving in rapidly. (Yes, I wore sunscreen!) This was one of the canals that splits off as the Isar moves north out of the city.
Here’s the river properly, far up near the suburb of Ismaning. I had reached my turnaround point and started heading back when I noticed this rocky little beach and stopped for a rest. There was a large group having a barbecue. That box in the river is actually their cooler filled with drinks! MĂŒncheners love swimming and playing in the Isar.
I rode up the east side of the river as I headed out, but for the return journey I crossed over one the bridges so I could head back on the west side.
Whenever I’m doing these really long rides, I’ve started bringing snacks along so I can refuel at the halfway point. I found a nice little bench and stepped aside for some peanuts, dried fruit, and one of my last Aussie snacks… â€ïž
Unbeknownst to me, the weather was about to take a turn. A sudden downpour of very cold rain had me huddling under a tree, waiting for it to pass…
Fortunately it passed quickly and I was able to finish the ride. The Snook met me at the biergarten so I could celebrate my longest ride yet!
A month later I broke my record again, this time on a ride to the southwest through Forstenrieder Park all the way to the village of Buchendorf and back. This was a beautiful ride that I really enjoyed… but it ended in TRAUMA! (More about that in a minute.)
As you can see, I was really excited to head off. I had recently invested in some proper cycling shorts with extra butt padding, so I was feeling pretty confident about this ride.
Part of my planned path was along the WĂŒrm River, a small tributary of the Amper that eventually ends in the Danube. It flows through a few small villages, which were all very pretty. These photos were near GrĂ€felfing.
The route I had was from Komoot again, and it was mostly on paved and gravel bike paths. It’s so gorgeous here. People are always like, why did you move from Australia to Germany? JUST LOOK AT THAT! So much green! I just can’t get enough of it.
Eventually I popped out of the forest and found myself in cornfields! It was so surreal. Almost felt like Indiana!
I crossed the WĂŒrm again at the village of Gauting and saw this historic water wheel (aka Wasserrad) that used to power a local papermill.
This was after I’d passed through Buchendorf, the village that marked the middle-point of the ride. I found myself riding through gentle rolling fields under an amazing blue sky.
As you can see, I was getting a bit sweaty and tired. I was also feeling some soreness in my bum, despite all the padding in my new shorts. I was starting to suspect that the big cushy seat on the Swapfiets bike wasn’t actually doing me any favours…
I found a bench in Forstenrieder Park to eat my snack and have a rest.
I made the rest of the trip home without incident, and I was feeling pretty proud at having managed such a long ride. NOW WE COME TO THE TRAUMA. Later that night, showered and fed, I was sitting on the sofa in a pair of shorts when the Snook looked at me and said, “Is your leg bleeding?!” Folks, I had a big bruised wound high up on my thigh that had actually burst somehow without me noticing it. It was basically a boil or a saddle sore that had formed from rubbing against the bike seat. We cleaned it up, put on an antiseptic, and bandaged it up. I also took a photo so I could show my doctor the next day via a tele-appointment. “Yeah, you’re fine,” he said. (These German doctors!) So yeah, my first saddle sore. Not fun!
That was basically the impetus I needed to finally buy a new bike. By August, I had found one on Ebay and paid âŹ250 for it. It’s a hybrid (meaning a cross between a road bike and a mountain bike) from local Munich cyclery 2rad.
It’s a couple years old, so I’ve made some upgrades and modifications since I got it. It originally came with a basket on the back but I took it off since I don’t really use it much. I took it into 2rad for a check-up, and they ended up replacing the brake pads for me and one of the chain links. One of the tire tubes had a leak, so Rodd and I managed to put in a new one. I also bought a new pair of handle grips to replace the old foam ones, and I got a hand-pump that I mounted on the frame. (I carry a patch kit and tire levers in my hydration pack, but I’m thinking of getting a little saddle bag.) It’s so much lighter than the Swapfiets bike! It’s also got more gears (27!) and consequently I’m finding it a lot easier to get up hills. And most importantly, the new seat is narrower and so far I’m finding it a lot more comfortable for long rides.
The first long ride I took her on was – where else? – along the Isar through the Englischer Garten.
Thankfully the flooding we saw earlier in the summer had mostly dissipated by September and the Isar was back to its normal size.
I couldn’t resist swinging by the Eisbachwelle to see if there were many surfers there. Yeah, there were a lot!
There were also plenty of folks taking advantage of the beautiful weather at the Chinesischer Turm (Chinese Tower) biergarten.
Every time I ride through the English Garten, I see something new. This time it was a field of sunflowers waving at me across a fence, and an old hydro power station across the river.
Snack time! You can also see in the background here the last bike-related purchase I made – a helmet. They aren’t required here, but I’m trying to get into the habit of wearing, especially for my long rides. I got a plain white Skullcap helmet and I’ve been having some fun decorating it with stickers.
My return trip took me back through the city, and I was happy to see a concert and arts festival happening in the Odeonsplatz. The “net” hanging above is actually an artwork by Janet Echelmann, and it looks incredibly beautiful lit up at night.
As I was waiting at a red light near home, I heard a loud jingling noise. To my delight, all traffic stopped as the Augustiner BrĂ€u bierwagen drove past, pulled by a team of horses and carrying a couple beardy Bavarians in lederhosen. Official Oktoberfest may have been cancelled, but MĂŒncheners still celebrated where they could!
The last long ride I did was just last weekend, a giant loop that took me on a greatest hits tour of Munich…
The first stop was Nymphenburg Palace, which we visited last year. My route took me across the bridge that crosses the Nymphenburger Kanal. I stopped midway to look back towards the palace. That’s it way off in the distance in that first photo. The other is looking in the opposite direction, down the canal…
There’s also an even smaller offshoot of the canal called the Biedersteiner, and I rode along that for a bit.
My next stop was Olympiapark, site of the Munich Olympics. Honestly, the juxtaposition of the green grass and the blue sky was so stunning I had to stop and take this photo. (Note to self: go back there in the winter and sled down that hill!)
There were lots of folks enjoying the day, boating on the little lake, and hiking the hills.
Eventually I headed home via the Englischer Garten and the Isar, and I finished at the Altstadt. It’s a pedestrian area so I had to walk my bike through the Marienplatz. It was looking very pretty, with baskets of flowers in Autumn colours all along the front.
I think that pretty much brings you up to date! Here’s a view of my Heat Map of where I’ve ridden in Munich. The really bright areas are from my shorter trips to the office or through the local parks, but all those little red tendrils are from my longer rides. Pretty neat! If you’re on Strava, you can follow me there and see if I managed to make my 1000km goal after all…
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Green and yellow and orange and red⊠đđ #autumn